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Documentation index — full table of contents.

What you need

Material

3D printed part

We recommend using a resin printer for the 3D printed parts. Screenshot_2026-06-12_150035

3D_printed_parts.zip

Encoders

Spare parts and optional upgrades

While performing test things might break, so it would be wise to keep the following spare parts at hand. We have also identified some optional upgrades which should help with the performance and keep your cars running a little bit longer.

Buggy:

AWD

Other optional parts: http://kyosho.com/mini-z-info/products/optional-parts-for-mini-z-awd/

RWD

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Other optional parts: http://kyosho.com/mini-z-info/products/optional-parts-for-mini-z-racer/

Tools

  • Nut driver：3.5mm, 4.5mm, 5.5mm
  • Phillips head screwdriver：＃0, ＃1
  • Hexagonal screwdriver：1.5mm
  • Small metal file
  • Solder iron
  • PCB assembly equipment. The PCB need to be assembled which means this tools are needed:
    • Stencil holder
    • Reflow oven or similar
    • Tweezers
    • Microscope

Optional tools

  • Metal thread insert tool like HELICOIL®. We use this so we can screw in standard metric sized bolts into the car chassis

Assembly guide

If a part of the guide is missing, don't worry, its coming soon!

Lighthouse deck

We communicate between the Lighthouse deck and the CRS PCB via the same connector as we flash the ESP32, 6 pin "PROG" socket. Make sure to flash your deck before assembling it.

Flash the deck

The firmware version we have tested is number 6

With a Crazyflie

  1. Installing the CFClient GUI or install from source
  2. Place the Lighthouse deck on the crazyflie and connect to it via a micro USB cable
  3. Start CFClient

  4. The console output before flashing should look like this:

    image.png

  5. how to flash lighthouse deck.zip (video)

  6. The console output after flashing should look like this:

    image.png

Extra Notes

  1. The flashing from Cold boot (recovery) part is optional. It’s only needed if the crazyflie’s firmware is unknown and outdated.
  2. During the flashing, the “Status” label might show “Identifying deck to be updated” and might be stuck there for a long time.
    1. If it’s stuck for more than 1 minute, it might be because the drone is calibrating the IMU. Try holding it up and help it move in all directions and orientations. The drone should blink and emit a sound when that’s done. After that, the deck flashing should continue.
    2. It’s also fine to unplug/power-off the drone and repeat the whole flashing process, if the step is stuck for more than 3 minutes. The cfclient GUI might need to be re-started, too.

Via the CRS PCB

TBD

Assembly

RC cars

Mini-z Buggy MB-010

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Encoders

PCB + cable:

  1. Populate the PCBs with the capacitor and hall sensor. Note the side to populate on!

    image.png

  2. Assemble the connector (JST SHR-03V-S-B) with the pre-crimped wire (JUMPER SSH-003T-P0.2-H X2 12") as shown below. Note that how you connect the wires don't matter in this step.

    image.png

  3. Cut one side to 122mm (incl the connector) and the rest can be cut down to 80mm.

    20240422_102710.jpg

  4. Solder the wires to the encoder PCB. Below is the pinout of the cable, the 80mm version is used in the front and the 122mm in the back.

    image.png

  5. Pleas take note on which side the cables should be attached to the PCB.

    image.png

  6. Last step is to add heat shrink which helps with our cable management and directs the cable out of the way from the car chassis

    20240422_131829.jpg

Wheels + magnets:

We found that super glue is the best adhesion to attach the magnets to the 3D printed wheels. We also recommend to use a rubber band to hold the glued magnets in place while it dry.

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Mini-z AWD MA-020

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  1. Start with removing the back and front (front is optional) bumper and replace them with "Mini-z AWD MA-020 rear bottom bracket" and "Mini z AWD ball bracket front M4" (optional)

    image.png

  2. Next remove the plastic top cover, PCB, motor fuse (the yellow part mounted to the motor) and battery cables

    image.png

  3. Solder the CLIK-MATE wire (2157111121 and 2157112121) according to the wire schematic below. Note that the direction of both the drive and steer motor can be configure in software later if the wires are swapped around.

    image.png

  4. Connect the wires to the connector (5025780900) and attach the PCB to the "CRS PCB top bracket" which can be clued to the "Mini-z AWD MA-020 PCB bracket interface". Optional is to use a HELICOILM2 threaded insert or just thread directly into the plastic of the car.

    image.png

Miniz RWD MR03

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  1. Remove the suspension, top cover, PCB, motor fuse (yellow part attached to the motor), battery cables and on/off switch.

    (optional) Remove the front bumper and replace it with the 3D printed part "Mini z AWD ball bracket front M4" (same part for both RWD and AWD)

    image.png

  2. Solder the CLIK-MATE wire (2157111121 and 2157112121) according to the wire schematic below. Note that the direction of both the drive and steer motor can be configure in software later if the wires are swapped around.

    image.png

  3. Screw back the suspension and connect the wires to the connector (5025780900) and attach the PCB to the "CRS PCB top bracket" which can be clued to the "Mini z RWD MR03 PCB bracket interface". Optional is to use a HELICOIL M2.5 threaded insert or just thread directly into the plastic of the car. Add the 3D printer part "Mini z RWD MR03 rear bottom bracket" in the back of the car.

    image.png